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Potent Forms of Vitamin C

Different types of vitamin C have varying efficacy and potency when targeting specific skin conditions. For instance, some forms of vitamin C are better for sensitive and rosacea-prone skin types, while others work on deeper layers of the skin, helping to address advanced signs of aging due to collagen and elastin breakdown. 

L-Ascorbic Acid (LAA). LAA is one of the most common types of vitamin C used in skin care formulations today. LAA is a highly active, water-soluble form of vitamin C that diminishes the appearance of hyperpigmentation, reduces inflammation, strengthens the skin’s barrier function and supports collagen and elastin production.  However, this type of vitamin C can be quite harsh on the skin and the side effects are constant dryness, irritation, redness and due to the acidity necessary to deliver LAA into the skin this type is not recommended.  In additon, LAA loses its stability.

Vitamin C Derivatives

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP). SAP is a derivative and precursor to vitamin C that the skin gradually converts into active vitamin C through enzymatic action.  This property gives SAP the advantage of long-term stability and avoids the skin irritation that other forms of vitamin C may induce, making it appropriate for rosacea or sensitive skin.  Additionally, SAP provides the same benefits as LAA, including diminishing the appearance of hyperpigmentation, reducing inflammation and supporting collagen and elastin production.  Another unique aspect of SAP is its antimicrobial effect making it an excellent choice for breakout-prone skin.  The best benefit is that any Skin Type can use this type without any irritation but all the benefits.

The best partners to pair with SAP is vitamin E

Vitamin E is a high potency vital antioxidant to pair with vitamin C because it protects different parts of our cell’s structure. Due to its oil solubility, vitamin E protects cells’ outer membrane (constructed of lipids) from oxidative damage, while vitamin C protects the inner water portion. Vitamin E is particularly useful in shielding cells from UV-induced damage especially when combined with vitamin C through increasing antioxidant competitiveness. To elaborate on this, when vitamins C and E are used together in skin care formulations they compete to neutralize free radical damage, leading to more potent neutralization and protection.  

Vitamin E helps improve circulation and repair tissue and is one of the most efficient chain-breaking antioxidants available. Vitamin E helps slow aging and may help prevent age spots.